Bookstores in Naples: A Book Lover's Guide

Introduction

If you're passionate about books, we've mapped out two routes for you through Naples. We chose every stop on two simple rules: you can find books in English (as well as Spanish, French and German), and the place itself is a pleasure to spend time in. In Naples, the two often go hand in hand.

Some stops lean towards the antiquarian, where Neapolitan history is catalogued in rare editions and out-of-print fragments, as at Libreria Antiquaria Colonnese. Others take a hybrid approach, like Libreria Berisio, blending books with a cosy café. Even the big chains, Feltrinelli, Mondadori and Ubik, are tied to this local context, working as crossroads where all kinds of readers mix.

What emerges isn't just a list of bookstores but something particular to Naples: here, a bookstore has never been just a shop. Most are woven into the fabric of the city, and its living history is part of the experience, from decades-old shops to the much-loved outdoor bancarelle (bookstalls).

Our first tip is simple: go, step outside the shop, flip through the pages and let yourself be immersed in the (often loud) soundtrack of Naples, made of overlapping voices and animated conversations. Port'Alba, the "street of booksellers" and one of the oldest gateways to the historic centre, shows this perhaps more than any other place. So that's where we begin.

The historic route

Port'Alba, the booksellers' street

Best for curious readers, second-hand book lovers and fans of old editions

If you love digging for hidden gems, Port'Alba is your place. Start your walk from Piazza Dante and pass through the 17th-century archway. From here, this legendary book street runs towards Piazza Bellini and Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli.

A local tip is to pause at one of the lively bars in Piazza Bellini, grab an outdoor table and enjoy a proper Neapolitan espresso right next to the ancient Greek walls before you dive in.

At Port'Alba, books literally spill out of the shops onto wooden stalls. Hidden gems, old prints and special editions wait quietly for visitors willing to take their time with the dusty stacks.

Naples is a city of ghosts, and Port'Alba holds one of its most famous tales: the story of Maria 'a Rossa (the red-haired girl), known for her striking beauty and her love for Michele. Living on opposite sides of the city walls, the lovers were kept apart until the opening of the gate finally brought them together. Overcome by grief, Maria gradually changed: she began to neglect her appearance and her beauty faded. Suspicious locals came to fear her and branded her a witch, locking her in a cage where she was left to die. Legend says her body turned to stone, and her spirit still lingers around the bookstalls of Port'Alba today.

The bookstores of Port'Alba

All the shops here have a long history, so don't expect colour-coded shelves or sleek design. Still, you might be surprised by the editions you find.

Here you'll find Pironti, L'Apostrofo, Berisio, L'Ecolibri, Pacifico, Langella, Bellini, and even a bookstore simply called Port'Alba. Some of them are true go-to spots for locals. Most titles are in Italian, so if you really can't find what you're looking for on the stalls, there's a modern Mondadori bookstore on the same street. Still, the hunt is worth embracing.

Libreria Berisio is a historic bookshop with shelves climbing all the way to the ceiling. By day it's a peaceful spot to sip a coffee surrounded by books; by evening it turns into a cosy bar with soft music, quieter than many other bars in Naples. The outdoor seats fill up quickly, though there's usually a steady turnover. It's worth ordering a drink, as snacks often come with it, and staying a while to watch the passers-by.

Libreria Pironti is a go-to place for used books that are nearly impossible to find elsewhere, alongside a wide selection of contemporary titles. It's a multi-level space with bookshelves wrapping around every wall, and it also stocks antiquarian collector's items. If you're hunting for something very specific, keep it in mind.

L'Apostrofo offers a well-curated selection of books in English, German and Italian, with an excellent section for graphic novels and comics.

At Langella you'll find good value for money and a large second-hand stock, likely thanks to the many books bought back from customers. Despite the sheer number of volumes, the shelves are surprisingly orderly.

If you're into comics, Pacifico, right where the street opens onto Piazza Dante, is a paradise for collectors looking for rare, vintage editions.

Once you've finished browsing, head back through the arch to Piazza Bellini and carry on to Via San Pietro a Majella, home to the Conservatory. Here you'll find Libreria Antiquaria Colonnese, a magical antiquarian bookstore whose tomes tell Neapolitan history from the 19th and early 20th centuries, with catalogues layered over time, inherited stock and rare books that have survived dust and time. You can also pick up tarot decks, postcards, prints and old recipes. Then it's time to move on.

Around Piazza del Gesù

Dante & Descartes, the soul of Piazza del Gesù Nuovo

Perfect for those who love to unearth hidden treasures and chat with booksellers

Head down to Piazza del Gesù Nuovo. Right across from the Chiostro dei Frati Minori you'll find Dante & Descartes. This much-loved shop belongs to Raimondo Di Maio, a bookseller known and respected all over Naples, and is run by his son.

Walk straight to the back to find a well-chosen shelf of English literature, translations of Italian classics and political essays. Books stacked on the floor, piled in corners and overflowing from the shelves cover nearly every inch of the place, and that's exactly where its charm lies.

Raimondo also runs a second shop on Via Mezzocannone, a seven-minute walk away. It's a true guardian of the city's old literary atmosphere, with more than 5,000 titles including first editions, rare manuscripts, out-of-print books and autographs.

Literary gossip: Dante & Descartes is also an independent publishing house. In 2020, when the American poet Louise Glück won the Nobel Prize in Literature, Italy's big publishers were caught completely off guard: none of them had her books in stock. The only publisher in the country who did was Raimondo. A year earlier, out of pure love for poetry, he had published her collection Averno, named after the volcanic crater lake near Naples that the ancient Romans believed was the entrance to the Underworld. Before the Nobel announcement he had sold just 70 copies. The very next day, it was a national bestseller.

Tamu and Ubik: two pit stops on the way into Spaccanapoli

Before you dive fully into the history of Spaccanapoli, make two more bookstore stops just past Piazza del Gesù.

Beyond the Monastery of Santa Chiara, on the corner of Via Santa Chiara, you'll find Libreria Tamu. This independent gem curates a catalogue centred on contemporary thought, with a strong focus on Arabic translations, literature from Africa and Asia, post-colonial studies, political and philosophical essays, graphic novels, feminism and disability studies. The space is small but intimate and welcoming, with little stools where you can sit and browse.

It's a favourite hangout for students (Erasmus ones included) from L'Orientale, the Naples university where more than 40 languages and cultures from around the world are studied, which suits Tamu's international outlook perfectly.

Back on Via Benedetto Croce, your next stop is Ubik Napoli. It has a great selection of both classics and contemporary fiction, keeps its independent soul alive and makes plenty of room for local authors. The young, friendly staff are always ready to talk about Neapolitan literature or the latest Napoli match with equal passion. Bonus point: upstairs there's a reading area where you can escape the bustle of the street for a while. This is also where Ubik hosts its popular themed book clubs, focused on feminist literature and crime fiction.

Spaccanapoli, the old printers' quarter

From Ubik, carry on along the same street. Past Piazza San Domenico Maggiore it becomes Via San Biagio dei Librai, "Saint Blaise of the Booksellers", the heart of what everyone calls Spaccanapoli (literally "Naples-splitter"), because this narrow, razor-straight street slices the ancient city neatly in two.

Part of the old Decumano Inferiore, this stretch runs from Piazzetta Nilo to Via Duomo, and its name is no coincidence: for centuries it was the capital of printing in the Kingdom of Naples. From the Renaissance onwards, the street was packed with printers, bookbinders and publishers.

Today you can still find bookstalls lining the pavement. Most titles are in Italian, but taking the time to thumb through the dusty stacks in search of a vintage rarity is half the fun.

Art books: Dispaccio and the museum shops

If you're an art lover, designer or photographer, you'll know how hard it can be to find specialised visual arts publishing in general bookstores. Naples used to have a real gap here, but things changed completely with the arrival of Dispaccio (meaning "dispatch").

Right in front of the Madre Museum (Museo d'Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina), Dispaccio is currently the only independent bookstore in Naples entirely dedicated to visual culture. It fills a big void for locals and visitors alike, with an amazing selection of independent magazines from around the world, photography books and design essays, many of them in English.

Beyond Dispaccio, art books in Naples are mostly found in museum bookshops and a few cultural hubs. If photography is your main interest, head to Magazzini Fotografici; for broader art catalogues, try the major museums. The bookshop at Gallerie d'Italia on Via Toledo is beautiful, the one inside the MANN (National Archaeological Museum) has recently been reorganised and expanded, and the Madre Museum has its own shop right in front of the ticket office. These are the places to go for exhibition catalogues and books on local art history.

That's the end of the historic route, and you must be pretty tired by now! Of course, we haven't forgotten the big national chains like Feltrinelli and Mondadori, or the great spots waiting for you outside the historic centre. You'll find them all on the new route below.

The new route

Via Toledo and Chiaia

Feltrinelli on Via Toledo and in Chiaia

After book-hunting in the historic centre, you might be looking for a broader, easier-to-browse selection of international titles. For that, it's worth heading to the city's larger bookstores.

Feltrinelli on Via dei Greci, just off Via Toledo (the city's main shopping street), is well worth a stop. Spread over several floors, it's one of the largest and best-stocked bookstores in town. Alongside fiction and non-fiction you'll find vinyl records, notebooks, stationery, a generous children's section and special editions. Good to know: there's no lift inside, so the upper floors aren't wheelchair accessible.

Together with its twin store in Piazza dei Martiri, in the Chiaia neighbourhood, it offers a wide choice of English-language and international books. It's the perfect place if you enjoy getting lost among well-organised shelves and relaxing in a comfy armchair. Feltrinelli Chiaia is also one of the few places in the city with regular monthly book clubs, and the most popular are dedicated to romance fiction, bringing together a passionate community of local readers.

Your reward: once you've found your next read, take a short stroll through Piazza Vittoria down to the Lungomare Caracciolo. Grab a seat by the water and read with the whole Gulf of Naples and Mount Vesuvius as your backdrop.

Travel tip: if you're arriving by train, there's also a Feltrinelli inside Napoli Centrale station. The selection is smaller, mostly classics and bestsellers, but it's ideal if you need a copy of My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante, Arturo's Island by Elsa Morante (set on the nearby island of Procida), or a pocket guide to Pompeii and Herculaneum before boarding the Circumvesuviana to the archaeological sites or the Sorrento Peninsula.

Mondadori in Galleria Umberto I

We also can't leave out the new Mondadori bookstore inside Galleria Umberto I, which you can enter from both Via Santa Brigida and Via Toledo. Covering more than 1,000 square metres, it's among the largest bookstores in Italy.

It marks a fresh chapter for Naples: a bright, elegant, internationally minded space where grand architecture and modern design blend seamlessly. As you step inside, a striking marble spiral staircase framed by colourful books leads you down to the lower floor. Throughout the store, bookshelves take the shape of arches and columns, while built-in benches create quiet corners for reading. Along the corridors, photographs celebrate some of the city's great writers, including Matilde Serao, Raffaele La Capria, Anna Maria Ortese and Eduardo De Filippo.

The study and reading areas are especially inviting, with comfortable sofas, a co-working space with shared desks and an in-house café. The lower floor regularly hosts book launches and talks, and it has become a favourite refuge for students, especially in the sweltering summer months, when the air conditioning is a welcome bonus.

The National Library

Just a few steps from the Galleria, no book lover should miss the National Library of Naples (Biblioteca Nazionale Vittorio Emanuele III), housed inside the magnificent Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale). Admission is free; just bring a valid ID. It's worth a visit for its breathtaking reading rooms alone, lined with majestic wooden bookshelves under frescoed ceilings. It also preserves the extraordinary Herculaneum papyri, carbonised by the eruption of Vesuvius.

Vomero: La Scugnizzeria and IoCiSto

A new cultural hub: La Scugnizzeria

In September 2026, La Scugnizzeria opened its doors in Piazzetta Durante, in the heart of Vomero, right opposite Cinema Plaza. Dedicated to the memory of Giancarlo Siani, the young journalist killed by the Camorra in 1985, this new cultural space brings together more than 11,000 books, many of them on sport, alongside games, a cosy wine bar and a tearoom.

Part of the Ubik network, La Scugnizzeria is a project of the publisher Marotta & Cafiero, which first opened it in Scampia in 2017 and later in Secondigliano. Now in Vomero as a new reading point, it has already welcomed several writers, carrying on its mission to make books accessible to the whole community. The name comes from the scugnizzi, the street kids of Neapolitan tradition, reimagined here as "book dealers".

The wine bar is an added bonus, and even its wines have a story to tell: they come from vineyards on land confiscated from the Camorra in Villa Literno, Casal di Principe and Santa Maria La Fossa. Here books and wine go together: browse the shelves, settle down with a book and enjoy a glass.

IoCiSto, the community bookstore

Just a short walk away, IoCiSto offers a different but equally meaningful experience. It was born from a crowdfunding effort by local residents who refused to accept the closure of the neighbourhood's historic bookshops, such as Fnac and Guida. Today this community-owned bookstore goes far beyond books, hosting author talks, workshops, board game evenings and film screenings, with a special mission to give visibility to emerging writers and independent publishers from Campania.

Many of its events naturally spill out onto the staircase linking Piazzetta Fuga and Via Morghen, where cushions turn the steps into an open-air meeting place for readers and neighbours alike. Conversations go on long after the talks end, and you get the feeling of a real community built around books.

Closing

Reading is usually something you do on your own. In Naples it rarely stays that way. Between the stalls of Port'Alba, the café tables at Berisio and the cushioned steps of Vomero, a book is just as often the start of a conversation. That's what we hope you'll take home from these two routes, along with a few new titles in your bag. Ciao for now!