Naples is not a city you understand from a bus window. It asks to be walked, through neighbourhoods that shift character street by street, along a coastline that has been spectacular for two thousand years, and into corners that no itinerary quite prepares you for. These are walks you do at your own pace, on your own terms.
(Read more)A long, historic descent from Vomero to the city below, where views, silence, and everyday Naples unfold step by step.
Few cities reward slow exploration the way Naples does. The historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a grid laid down by Greek colonists in the 5th century BC, still largely intact, and you can still get around it on foot. Layer by layer, two and a half millennia of history have accumulated on those streets, and the only way to read them properly is to walk them.
The routes on this page cover the city's most rewarding territory on foot: the dense, layered drama of the Centro Storico; the seafront stretch from Chiaia to Mergellina; the clifftop views of Posillipo; the volcanic landscape out towards Campi Flegrei. Some are straightforward and easy to follow, some instead take you through neighbourhoods where it helps to know what you're looking at. We've written them so you do.
Naples is hilly in places and the pavements are uneven almost everywhere. Good shoes matter. So does going early, before the heat and the crowds. Most of these walks work best in the morning, not just for the light, which is extraordinary, but because Naples in the early hours belongs to its residents in a way it stops doing by midday.